how to set up a Rotastak mouse cage

I've done cage tours before, but this shows how I set up the rotastak cage system. This was before I got the new mice Diesel, Jensen and Interceptor. I have now switched over to the new Ikea Detolf unit, but partly wanted to share this video because I will be selling off most of my huge rotastak collection on Ebay. This is primarily for the buyers to see some ideas of how to set up a fun layout for their mice, hamsters or gerbils.

I am still keeping some of my rotastak cages as spares, and I do love them a lot, but I am moving house soon and can't keep all of my spares.

There are two main errors people make using rotastak systems:
1: insufficient space
2: wrong substrate material (bedding)

First, a single drum or just a kidney unit and drum is NOT enough space for any small pet. The more space you can give them the better.

Secondly, NEVER use wood shavings for rodents, no matter WHAT claims are made on the packet - it is BAD for their delicate respiratory systems. I use Aubiose or Hemcore which is a dust extracted, hypoallergenic, and highly absorbent bedding which was originally developed for horses who had allergies or COPD (respiratory problems). It locks away about 10 times as much moisture as wood shavings, and also locks away odour. It composts well too, so if you have a garden disposal is easy.

There are other beddings available which do not harm your pet, like finacard, kaytee or carefresh (although some pets can be allergic to carefresh apparently so take care). A good place for supplies is www.ratrations.com

When using rotastak remember these top tips:

ALWAYS use the metal anti-gnaw rings on protruding ends of tubes, as not only can your pet chew them and make them unsightly, but the chewed plastic could harm them. Provided you use gnaw rings all will be fine.

Mice cannot "shimmy" up vertical tubes like fatter hamsters can, so make sure to keep all tubes gently sloping, or use mouse ladders for vertical climbs. Check cages at least once a day, make sure ladders are in place (not dislodged) and tubes have not been blocked by toys being dragged into them.

ALWAYS provide at LEAST two sources of water - bottles or bottle and bowl, and change water bowls daily as they can quickly become soiled. This is in case one bottle fails - leaks out or won't dispense water, as small animals can become dangerously dehydrated within hours. Check water at LEAST once daily, and when changing make sure to scrub bottles out thorougly with hot soapy water and a bottle brush to prevent build up of bacteria or mould.

To clean, I remove mice, then toys, water bottles and food bowls, then tip the soiled bedding into the bin. I then spray down all surfaces with pet safe cage disinfectant (NEVER use bleach as the residual fumes can harm your pets), and wipe down with kitchen roll. You can also wash rotastak parts in hot soapy water if you wish but this isn't neccesary at every muck out, as spraying and wiping should be sufficient.

Exercise wheels tend to get the stinkiest, the rainbow runner wheels are removable, I have spares so I simply swap on a fresh one and wash the dirty one, but you can remove the wheel from the hub, spray both with cage clearner, wipe dry and put it back on again.

Top tip for squeaky or rattly wheels - remove the wheel from the hub and smear on some lard for lubrication - this will ensure silent running. if it gets rattly again after a while, simply re-apply the lard. I use lard because it is edible if the mice can get to it by accident and won't harm them (if they have lots they could get digestive upset but it is unlikely in tiny amounts). Also, unlike coconut oil, lard has a higher melting point so will stay solid and provide lubrication longer. Olive oil can work but will run out fairly quickly.

I have done a separate video on mixing mouse food which I will upload later.