How to Build a Post and Pier Foundation for Deck or Tiny home.

In this video, I cover the basics of how to build a post and Pier foundation for a deck or a tiny home. I cover the importance of using a plumb bob when setting your post holes how to use a three four five squaring technique and the importance of using a laser level when building a foundation. Also, I show you how and why we used rigid foam insulation on our floor. lushplanet.net/

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Mild Climate Footings for sheds and outbuildings; In mild winter climates (12" or less frost depth) and well-drained non-clay soil, there is little chance of freezing soil lifting the footings and piers.

In this case, you can dig down into the soil and either pour a concrete footing or fill the footing hole with clean crushed rock. The size of this footing hole should be a 16" diameter circle or square for gravel or rocky soils and a 24" circle or square for soils with mostly loam, loose sand, or gravel. The footing depth should be 1/2 the width or more. This foundation is used in the Little House Plans kit.

Make sure the bottom of the footing rests on undisturbed soil free of organic material. Don't build on fill or soil that has been dumped on the site (unless it is incompressible material such as crushed rock).

Note: This is the most inexpensive and lightweight foundation option for a small building or shed. It would not be appropriate for a more expensive house. It should not be used in areas of high wind exposure or on steeply sloping ground.

Cold Climate Footings:
In colder climate areas or locations with expansive clay-type soils, you need the footing to be on soil that is below frost depth. Coming up from the footing will be either a pressure-treated wood post or a concrete pier made out of mortared blocks or a poured concrete tube. Such a foundation will likely need to be engineered to meet your local requirements so these options are only suggestions.

Block Piers:
You can also build your piers from 8 x 8 or 12 x 12 concrete blocks. For short piers use the smaller blocks, for taller ones go larger. Tube piers come in various diameters as well and larger ones should be used on the downhill side of a sloping site where they will stand higher. A safe rule of thumb is that a pier or post should not exceed 12 (for concrete) or 20 (wood) times its width in unsupported height. Confirm this with your building inspector or a local engineer.

When using concrete blocks for your piers, the footings must all be level in order for the piers to be level under the beams. If you have to change footing levels they must be in the same increments to match the height of the blocks. With poured tubes, you can cut them off level prior to filling so the footings can be at different levels. Check for level using a laser or an inexpensive water level made from clear tubing.

Setting the Tops of the Piers:
Set the height of the piers so that there is a minimum of 12" under the beams and 16" under the floor joists of the floor platform. This will provide enough space for plumbing, wiring, and insulation to be worked on from below. Provide cross-bracing between the piers to provide additional lateral stability. Provide straps or other hardware to tie the walls, floor, and foundation together for extra stiffness.

Wood Post Foundation Piers:
When using wood posts get foundation grade 6x6 treated poles or posts. When using a gravel footing, nail a square of pressure-treated 2x10 or 2x12 to the bottom to act as afoot. Use only hot-dipped galvanized, "Z-max" or stainless steel nails and bolts with PT material. Don't rely only on the bolts to hold the beams. Set the beams on top of the wood posts and connect them with appropriate metal brackets or wood plates as shown.

There are many different types of metal brackets and strap anchors. Ask locally at the lumber yard as these will vary by brand and the size of beam and post. A "Y" anchor that is nailed to both sides of the beam is sometimes more available than the Simpson hardware shown in the diagrams

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