How to Install Wainscoting on Angles (Staircase Renovation Episode 1)

In this first episode of our staircase renovation, we show the details of building wainscoting on angles. Wainscoting on staircases can be challenging because the angles of the trim are not a standard 45 degree cut on the miter saw. I use a Mite-R-gage tool to measure angles - see amzn.to/2GdoRhy. It allows me to get quick and accurate measurements of the angles I need to cut in the woodshop.

See the playlist of all the videos in this staircase makeover project - youtube.com/playlist?list=PLdSuVz1n16d8_MK7VTqD…

The process of installing wainscoting starts with selecting the material. I've used 1/2 inch material for the frames and 1/4 inch material for the panels. The inside of the wainscoting panels is trimmed out with panel mould.

I install the wainscoting frames first, which defines the shape of the space. I then cut a panel to fit loose inside the frames. Once the panel is in place, I sketch out a drawing of the wainscoting panels so I can write down all the measurements. This is a time saver as I can take the drawing into the woodshop and cut all the parts in a batch.

When I take the measurements of the panel mould, I switch to metric. All the building I do in my shop is in inches, but when I do trim, I find it easier to work in millimeters. I use a Stanley measuring tape that has both inches and millimeters on it - see amzn.to/2t4Qv7M. After I have the measurements of all the lengths I need, I then measure the angles I need to cut on the miters. I measure using a quality miter gauge and then write down the angles on the drawing.

The most challenging angles to cut are the ones that are more than 45 degrees as most miter saws can only cut 45 degrees. To overcome this, I cut a 45 degree panel to use as an auxiliary fence. I then do the math to subtract 45 degrees from the angle I need and set the miter saw (e.g., to cut 66 degrees, subtract 45, which is 21 - set the saw to 21 degrees). This can be a dangerous cut if not clamping down the parts, especially if the panel mould is wide material, so ensure you're trained and comfortable with this type of saw operation to avoid an injury.

Once the parts are mitered to length, I test fit them and trim them where needed. I install the panel mould with a brad nailer and glue the miters to keep them tight. I then fill the nail holes, sand them, and prime the wood to prep it for paint.

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