How to Replace a Steering Wheel on a Lawn Tractor

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In this video, I will be showing you how to replace a lawn tractor’s steering wheel. There are different types of connections depending on the manufactures, this video is specifically for the steering wheels that use a cross-bolt which holds the wheel into place. Here I have a Honda lawn tractor, I have a used replacement which is from a John Deere. While their shapes are different, they do use the same connections.

This Honda is a bit of a project for me, I picked it up from a scrap yard and the wheel was already broken. As you can see, it has a cross-bolt at the base of the wheel. It appears as if someone already attempted to replace the wheel as the threads of the bolt were damaged. It has a 3/8” lock nut with a washer on the one side and that will need to be removed.

This bolt has a spindle and needs to be driven out with a punch. A center punch can be used, if you are reusing the bolt, be careful not to damage the threads. You can also use the nut flush against the threads to get it started.

Once the bolt goes inside the wheel, you’ll still need to finish up with a punch.

After that bolt has been removed, the wheel should lift off if you’re not fighting with corrosion. You may be required to hit the wheel from the bottom side with a hammer and this didn’t work for me. Unfortunately, it was seized quite badly so I had to take an alternative route.

The outer portion of the wheel was cut off using a hack saw.

Next what I want to do is slice the wheel along the side of the steering shaft, so I’m able to spread the wheel. I’m being extremely careful not to cut the steering shaft. In the first try, I was too far off so I had to cut the other side.

Looking at the replacement wheel, you can see there is an aluminum sleeve inside the wheel and this will need to be cut. The aluminum should be fairly soft to cut by hand.

Again making another cut.

I still wasn’t as close as I’d like to be to the steering shaft so using a carbide bur bit in a drill, I ground out the material. Taking my time not to damage anything else. Aluminum can plug up the bur bit so either use WD40 or a wire brush to clean the bit. A didn’t want to use heat as there’s too much plastic which will get damaged.

Next using a chisel, try to separate that bushing to loosen it up.

Using large interlocking pliers, grab onto what’s remaining the old wheel and twist it. Even add oil to help loosen it up.

And finally, remove.

I used some sandpaper to give the soft a cleanup, removing any light rust.

Wiped it clean and then applied an anti-seize. If it ever needs to come off again, at least the removal process will be much easier.

Install the new wheel and give it a spin to move around the anti-seize.

Anti-seize was also applied to the cross bolt, then install it using a hammer to tap it into place.

Install the washer and nut, then tighten.

The wheel isn’t fully centered, I’ll see if I can adjust the main steering shaft after. This wheel was free so it’s much better than buying a replacement from the dealer.

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