Making quilt binding with a serger - step-by-step sewing tutorial

In this sewing tutorial I want to show you how to make quilt binding. I know there are many videos on making quilt binding but I am doing it a little bit differently than what I have seen. I bind a quilt with my serger and it’s really fast, easy and accurate. 

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Step 1 - Prepare your quilt for sewing binding

I attached my 2 quilted sides with straight pins, they are going to hold my quilt sandwich together and prevent it from shifting.

You have to trim all edges of your quilt cutting through all layers as straight as possible.

Step 2 - Prepare a long strip of fabric for binding.

Make sure your binding strip is long enough for your quilt.

How wide to cut quilt binding?

I made my binding 2 ¼ in wide but I think a good width would be from 2 in to 2 ½ in.

I made my binding with the ends at 45 degree angles. If you have straight edges you need to cut it at a 45 degree angle. Then fold the edge in ¼ in and press. Fold the binding strip in half lengthwise wrong sides together and press with an iron.

Step 3 - Prepare a serger

Use good quality serger threads.
Change the needle - a dull needle is no good for stitching over a few layers of fabric and batting

I used just a regular 1 needle 3 thread overlock stitch. But I use the left needle - in the most left position because in my case the stitch width is 1/4 in. You need to make a stitch width as wide as possible, but not necessary ¼ in.

Serger stitches are excellent in preventing bunching or folding of the quilt layers.

Step 4 - Start sewing
Start sewing binding on a side, somewhere in the middle of one side, never start in a corner. You can begin binding anywhere along the edge of the quilt except in a corner. Allow approximately 4 in of the binding to be free (without stitching). But it’s also better not to start sewing close to the corners because it may be a little difficult to join the quilt ends near the corners.

After you have decided where to start, run the binding strip around the edges of the project to make certain that the binding seams don’t fall into corners. If you see it happens readjust your starting point until there are no seams near the corners.

Place the folded binding strip on the quilt matching raw edges. The raw edges of the binding are placed against the raw edge of the quilt.

I have a reversible quilt so I don’t have the front and the back of my quilt - both sides are the quilt top.

I put a few pins to secure the binding in place from the beginning. But with a serger you don’t need to pin the binding around the entire quilt. Just align the raw edges by hand.
When sewing, place the serger’s knife along the edge of the quilt - don’t cut any fabric from the quilt edge, just go with the knife along the edge.

Step 5 - How to sew around a corner

You have to stop sewing before you reach the corner. So, when to stop? The distance to the quilt edge is equal to the width of the seam allowances. In my case the seam allowances are ¼ inch, so I should stop ¼ in from the edge. If you are not sure where to stop make a mark on the quilt. It’s better to stop before the ¼ in point (even if you stop a few millimeters before) then to sew over it. If you sew past this point your corners will never look right.
Put the needle and the presser foot in the up position and remove the project from under the presser foot. Run the serger without the project and make a thread tail around 3 in.

Fold the binding strip up diagonally to form 45 degree angle at the crease as shown in the image below (45 degree angle). The binding strip should be exactly perpendicular to the quilt side you just sewed and the raw edge of the binding strip is exactly parallel to the other side of the quilt.
Fold the strip down, so that fold is even with the top edge and the raw edges are lined up with the raw edges of the quilt again.
Start stitching again from the very edge of the quilt.

Continue around entire quilt, repeating this procedure at each corner.


Step 6 - Quilt binding joining ends

Stop approximately 8 in from the beginning. Overlap the edges of the binding strip to enclose raw edges. Slip the end of the binding strip into the starting end. Stitch the final section of binding to the project trimming any access.
Step 7 - finishing the quilt
Flip the binding over and form the corners. You can see that the corners are perfectly mitered on this side.
Work your way around the quilt. I want my binding to be perfectly even so I decided to baste the binding in place before final stitching. I also pressed the binding after basting. It really helps to make a crisp nice finish of the quilt.
I decided to use a decorative stitch of my Janome sewing machine. So, I put this stitch along the edge of the binding.